Fashion

A shoe every man needs

There's shoes and then there's shoes. Don't let trainers take you hostage, these shoes are a non-negotiable

BY MATTHEW BISHOP

You deserve better

I adore Chelsea boots, especially when they come in a beautiful dark brown, as they are a staple for any man's ‘smart casual outfit’. Gents tend to opt for trainers when going for smart casual, great if you are going for a run straight after, but not so great if you are trying to look stylish. All a wardrobe needs is a little leather, the right kind, of course.

For a few years I wore another brand’s Chelsea boots, which I will write about in a future article, and I wore them into the ground. They were an amazing shoe that worked unbelievably well in any casual setting and they lasted more than three years, being worn day in, day out. However, when they were finally worn down to the final thread, I decided to change and level up a little. Of course, it had to be Edward Green.

A timeless legacy

When many of us were in our first year of secondary school, Edward Green was just dipping his toes into the shoe industry, with a single ambition, to make a better class of shoe. In 1890, Green opened his workshop and gathered the most illustrious craftsmen and materials to ensure they provided the public with excellent shoes ‘without compromise’. That single attitude has created a legacy that has lasted nearly 140 years, with his shoes having been worn by Ernest Hemingway and Edward, Duke of Windsor. Today, Edward Green has expanded to boutiques around the world and opened shops in London and Paris, all whilst maintaining production in Northampton.

Crossing the threshold

For a long time I would walk up and down Jermyn Street and always pass Edward Green, peeking through the window, constantly debating whether I should go in. One summer’s day in June, the shoes I was wearing were reaching their breaking point, a hole had started to develop in the leather, the soles had worn away into nothingness and the heel was holding on for dear life. There I was on Jermyn Street, facing Edward Green. The frontage had no theatrics, no strong desire to impress, very understated, with cream stone and the name Edward Green pressed across the lintel as though it had been there forever. I approached the black doors, pushed them open and left the city behind.

Luxury stores are interesting. Among many people I speak to, there is always some trepidation about entering them, as though you will go in and be judged just for browsing, almost like you have to apologise for disturbing their day or potentially wasting their time.

Not here. I will preface this by saying that I entered wearing a rather ragged outfit that day, yet the lady approached me with the biggest smile and asked how she could be of assistance. No judgement, no scowl, no looking bored or unentertained, just a real desire to help me find the perfect shoe.

I had a wander around the shop and then I saw the Chelsea boot. I will admit I was considering a different shoe at the time, but then I saw the Newmarket sitting there. I remember seeing it from a distance at first. The shoe looked balanced, not too narrow or overly round. The dark brown leather carried depth rather than shine. It wasn’t trying to impress, it simply looked correct. I picked it up and knew these were the shoes I was getting.

It’s all in the delivery

There was a knock on the door and I was handed a large parcel. To my surprise, when I opened it I was greeted by an engulfing turquoise box with the Edward Green logo stamped in shiny gold across the front. Lifting the lid, I found the shoes wrapped like a picnic in brown cloth, with each shoe placed inside its own brown shoe bag and a shoe care guide gently laid on top. Luxury is often revealed in layers, each step building the anticipation. But this wasn’t sham luxury where you pay thousands for a name, the makers clearly put a lot of thought and care into the delivery of their shoes. The cloth felt like soft moleskin and not at all flimsy, as though it would last only five seconds. Plus, the shoe care guide was a massive help in ensuring your shoes are protected come rain or sunshine.

Now onto the important bit, the shoes themselves.

To sum up, breathtaking. I would like to point out that photos do not do them justice. Starting with the colour, they are a beautiful deep, dark chocolate oak tone that catches the light perfectly. A lot of shoes you see tend to have a uniform colour throughout, giving the impression they have been picked straight off a factory conveyor belt and flung into a box. Not these. The tip of the shoe begins with pitch black shading that morphs into oak until the black reappears at the heel. Separating the heel and toe is the elastic gusset, coloured in shadowed indigo, almost black in some light, completely removing any distraction from the shoe’s rich leather. Turn the shoe over and you are greeted by a smooth natural leather sole, unvarnished and proudly stamped with ‘Made in England’, with the heel capped in black rubber. The black rubber heel piece shows Edward Green’s attention to detail, as most brands opt for a fully rubber sole, taking away the elegance of the shoe. Edward Green retains that elegance whilst giving just enough grip in wet conditions to stop you skating around town like Bambi on ice.

The bits that matter to me

Let’s pause for a moment and forget about the luxury, quality and brand. I spent what felt like an eternity searching the web for the perfect boot with the subtle details I was looking for.

Firstly, the close cut sole. Observe how the sole hugs the leather upper. Most Chelsea boots have a terribly thick sole sticking out like a brute, with coloured stitching planted on top. At that point, it becomes a builder’s work boot, or worse, reminiscent of Krusty the Clown’s ludicrous shoes. This boot removes all the visual bulk and possesses a slimmer silhouette, allowing it to complemen

t an outfit rather than distract from it.

Secondly, the ankle height. Many Chelsea boots sit too high, making it look like you’re on your way to a hoedown. Others are too low, giving the impression the maker couldn’t commit, leaving you somewhere between a boot and a shoe.

Finally, the pull tabs. Too many feel as though if you tug them even slightly too hard, they will tear out. These feel securely stitched, as though you could suspend a car from them.

The shoe for any occasion

Styling these is effortless. They work with casual outfits or slightly smarter looks and are a godsend with denim. You can see here I am wearing them with a white jumper and jeans. But they don’t stop there, they work excellently with chinos and suit trousers too. Whenever you go to a smart casual event and are thinking of wearing trainers, stop. Don’t do it. Get a hold of yourself and slip on Chelsea boots instead.

The only outfits I would avoid pairing these with are shorts, or anything veering firmly into formal territory such as a blazer and tie. Think of it like this, if the event moves away from smart casual and into fully smart, opt for a lower cut shoe instead. Otherwise, you’re all good.

Stop reading. Add these to your wardrobe

This may feel like a guilty purchase, but remember you are paying for quality. At a £1,400 price tag, rest assured you are getting it. This is not a brand built on name alone, their products are backed by craftsmanship and heritage. Moreover, these are shoes you will wear often, as the majority of social events fall into the smart casual bracket, so the cost per wear will dramatically decrease. Pair that with the superb build quality and these shoes will, no doubt, last you a lifetime.